I’m betting that just about everybody who’s seen a black & white landscape picture has silently and sarcastically thought to themselves, “Nice job, Ansel Adams-wanna be.” I know I’m guilty of it, even with my own shots. But there’s gobs of reasons his name is synonymous with black & white nature photography – he took a lot of damn good shots and did some groundbreaking work in the field in terms of technique!
Maybe it’s because Adams’ work was mainstream in the sense that it appeared in places other than just the fanciest museums so I was exposed to it a little more often, but I usually prefer black & white landscape shots to those in color. Don’t get me wrong – color landscape photography can be really amazing. But, I deal in reality and my reality/luck is that I’m rarely in the right spot at the right time with the utterly perfectly dramatic conditions to get a National Geographic-worthy color shot no matter how hard I try. So instead, I work to find something interesting about the scene nature’s put in front of me, even if it’s not readily apparent the moment I take the picture.
It may sound silly, but that was definitely the case at the Grand Canyon. That vast swath of land is so beautiful I still can’t find words to do it justice. It’s also really hard to capture it in a way that conveys both its magnitude and its beauty. So, instead of frustrating myself with not-quite-ideal conditions, I made the best of what I had. Turns out, the best of what I got was on our way back to Phoenix at the end of our stay in the park.
The morning we left, we decided to head further east towards Desert View Tower to get a different vantage point on the Grand Canyon. The 25-mile drive out to Desert View Tower had quite a few places were you could stop and look out over the rim. What was cool for us was that, after spending 3 days in the Village looking north out into the Canyon and across to the North Rim, this drive put us more towards the eastern side so we were looking up the Canyon to the west, more in line with how the Colorado River flows through it. Because it was mid-morning, the light was just about right to keep things bright, yet still have some dramatic shadows in play, so I activated my inner Ansel Adams and got to work.
I normally shoot my black & white shots in color first, then convert them to black & white later during post-processing. Even in cases when the color is a bit blah due to flat light, I find I can manipulate the monochrome version more easily to get make things come out the way I want it. Using this approach over the years, I’ve built up a sense for what I think would make a good black & white shot based on the Technicolor version in front of me when I initially take the picture. That helps me think through the shooting process to get interesting or dramatic shots. When I get home to review and process the images, sometimes I surprise even myself in terms of what I can come up with in black & white.
Here’s 3 examples from this trip alone where I was really surprised with how much better I thought things looked in black & white instead of color. Each is presented in a slide show so you can see what I saw when I took the picture versus how it changed when I converted to black & white.
Ansel Adams was definitely onto something all those years ago, so I’ll keep channeling him on occasion when it comes to my own landscape & nature photography.
No truer words have ever been spoken when it comes to canyon hiking. When you’re hiking up mountains, the harder part of the day is usually the climb, but at least that’s the first part of your day when your legs are fresher. Coming down can still be tough, but at least you’re working with gravity instead of against it.
Canyon hiking is the exact opposite. Your day starts with the “easy” downward trek, but then you have to climb up and out to finish the day when you’re at your most exhausted. The canyons I’ve hiked have been in hot desert climates, so that makes the exhaustion all the worse on the way back up if you’re not careful.
Whether it’s mountain or canyon hiking, it’s still worth it even though there’s different physical and mental challenges involved.
On our 2nd full day in Grand Canyon National Park, it was finally time to dive into the Canyon a little. Before we did, I had to get out to try for sunrise shots again though. I’m happy to say the weather cooperated a bit better than the day before!
Our plan was to head down the Bright Angel trail as far as we could reasonably go on a winter day hike. We fueled up with a good breakfast, grabbed our gear, and off we went.
Trail conditions weren’t too bad, though we found ourselves walking on snow and ice for the first 1.5 miles of the trail. Thankfully, we brought our traction devices to shore up our footing, though that didn’t mean we could blaze down the trail. It was slick and steep enough that one slip in the wrong place and – whoop! – you’d be off the trail and taking a really bad downward plunge.
A little ways down the trail, we came across what may be one of the most amusing – and useful – signs we’ve ever seen in our hiking travels. Aside from providing important safety info to novice hikers thinking they could slay the Canyon on an easy long walk, we enjoyed the artwork. My husband correctly pointed out that the National Park Service probably commissioned someone draw that puking hiker on the sign. That thought gave us a good laugh.
Our goal at the start of the day was modest – just make it down to the 1.5 Mile outpost that’s – you guessed it – about 1.5 miles from the trailhead. Not knowing what the trail conditions would be or how steep the decent would be, it seemed like a reasonable goal. I think we shocked ourselves when we made it that far in good time, even though I was snapping away during the hike as the lighting and shadows changed on our view of the Canyon.
Pleasantly surprised by how good we felt, the trail conditions, and the time we made, we decided to plunge onward and shoot for the 3 Mile outpost. (Yes, about 3 miles from the trailhead. Such creative naming conventions!)
We arrived just in time for a spot of lunch and for the lighting and shadows to go flat on the Canyon. That didn’t mean I didn’t take a picture though because we came across another new trail sign favorite that inspired this post… down is optional, up is mandatory. So succinct and so true! I couldn’t leave without snagging a shot of that sign.
We were still feeling good after lunch and the weather was still pretty stellar. As much as we were tempted to press on a little further down into the Canyon, we decided to be smart and head back up. It was a looonnnngggg, steep, slick, mushy climb, but we made it back out with relative ease. We even found a fossil in rock along the way!
We weren’t sure how far we descended into the Canyon in terms of altitude on the way down, but when we reached the top my watch estimated we had climbed up over 2200 feet in elevation over those 3 miles of trail! They say the Canyon is, on average, 1 mile deep, so we made it a little shy of halfway down to the Canyon floor.
Once we got back to the trailhead on the rim, we got some perspective on how far down we went because we could see the 3 Mile outpost. Yeah, it’s a ways down there! (The oval is an approximation of where the 3 Mile resthouse is along the trail.)
Maybe next trip we’ll get a little more ambitious and climb further down this trail or a different path. For my first journey into the Grand Canyon itself, it was a pretty awesome day!
PS – The Canyon treated us to a pretty spectacular sunset as the cherry on top of our day. We even came across a little snowman family someone had made, complete with bits of carrot for the noses!
Waking up at the Grand Canyon to start our first full day in the park meant getting up early for some sunrise shots. The forecast was iffy, so we weren’t sure if we’d see any sun that early, but I was willing to try in spite of the snow showers lingering from the night before.
The best part of shooting sunrises in winter is getting to sleep in a little later than you would for a summer sunrise. Yay short days and long nights! Sure, the cold isn’t fun, but that’s the trade-off. I also find the cold scares a lot of people off, so I have a better chance of shooting what I want, from an angle I want, without crowds.
On this particular morning, my impressions of the Grand Canyon started to improve and line up more with my expectations. The weather wasn’t ideal, but with a hint of sunlight brightening the clouds of the snow squall moving through just before the sun broke the horizon, I had a funky blueish, moody light to start the day. If nothing else, we could see a lot more of the Canyon than I could the previous afternoon when we arrived!
Knowing I’d have 2 more mornings to hope for better weather, we didn’t stay out long. What started as snow showers turned into a wind-driven snow/sleet combo that stung as it hit your face. It also meant a lot of lens cleaning, so that was it for the day’s sunrise shooting session.
We bugged out and warmed-up over breakfast, then set back out to check out trail conditions and ease our way into whatever we were going to make of the day. All it took was a few hours after sunrise for the weather to start clearing and yes – the angels finally started singing and the Canyon looked like what I had imagined, and far surpassed any expectation I had of it!
Our day found us keeping it simple by hanging out and taking a long walk around the trail along the South Rim. It seemed like every few feet when I stopped to take a peek, my jaw dropped further and further in amazement of the geological feat in front of me.
Though I took a fair number of pictures that morning, when I got home and sorted through my shots, I realized that so many of them looked the same. Then it dawned on me – even though we walked probably 3 miles or so along the rim, the Canyon is just so big that changing your viewpoint by a mile or two doesn’t drastically affect the perspective in a picture! The only things really changing were the clouds in the sky and the shadows on the ridges in the Canyon. Still, I couldn’t complain because it’s just stunning to see.
After our morning spent along the rim, we wandered into the woods and walked some of the greenways that cut through the park connecting different parts of Grand Canyon Village. Under normal circumstances, when the government is operating (argh shutdown!), you can rent bikes to cruise all over the Village along these pathways through groves of ponderosa pines and junipers. It made for a nice wintry walk to bookend our day.
As we wandered back to our lodge, we passed the Grand Canyon’s train station. The Grand Canyon Railway has a long history – predating the establishment of the park itself!
We didn’t ride the train, but it was parked at the station, having recently arrived for the day’s trip up from Williams, AZ about 65 miles away. Maybe next trip to the Grand Canyon we’ll go for a ride ourselves.
With our first full day at the park nearing an end, we called it a day. Tomorrow was shaping up to be a long one since we planned to get down into the Canyon as long as weather and trail conditions cooperated.
They say that first impressions mean a lot. Whether it’s a person or a place or an experience, it sticks with you. For my first-ever trip to the Grand Canyon, I was expecting a big “AAAAAHHHHH…” moment with the sound of angels singing as I laid my eyes on that majesty for the first time. Alas, that moment would have to wait – just my luck!
Our trip to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim was a little semi-last-minute journey we decided to take since my husband’s birthday fell on a weekend – an excellent excuse to get away with what little vacation time we had available from our “regular” jobs. We were both unlucky and lucky in the timing and location we chose because we booked the trip before the US government shutdown happened (unlucky), but the state of Arizona bailed us out (lucky)!! (The state provided funding for basic services at Grand Canyon National Park because they recognize it’s so vital to their economy – even in winter.)
We weren’t sure what to expect because of all of the uncertainty caused by the political garbage going on. There was also weather to consider. Heading into the trip, there was a good chance we’d get caught in a storm on the 3-4 hour drive up from Phoenix. That’s where luck struck again and the storm hit 2 days before we got there, meaning the roads were clear, even if the skies continued to look threatening. We tried to stay positive, even though we were a little leery of how all of this was going to go.
Thankfully, travel went as planned and we got to the park about mid-afternoon… just as rain started to come down. The park rangers were working at the entrances to hand out maps & info. (They weren’t allowed to collect the entrance fees that help support the park.) As the ranger handed us our map, she said we should hustle if we wanted to see the Canyon because it was quickly filling in with fog and might not be visible within the next 15-20 minutes at the rate the weather was rolling in. Gah!
We took her advice and got our hustle on and bolted straight to the rim. While impressive and – photographically speaking – kinda cool with the mist & fog in the air, it certainly wasn’t what I pictured in my mind as a first impression.
Don’t get me wrong – I was thrilled to finally be there and recognized I had a few days’ stay for the weather to improve. But, that first impression of the Grand Canyon wasn’t exactly what I thought it’d be.
The weather was steadily getting worse as the cold rain picked up in intensity, but we were able to walk around a bit along the rim to see if anything else was visible. Unfortunately, the ranger was right – it didn’t take long for the Canyon to fill in with fog and ick to become a sea of soupy white blah.
Without the Canyon to distract us with its beauty, I kept my eye out for any little quick shots I could grab with my phone in the wintry rain. That’s when we came across this scenic locator. It looked old, and from the inscription on it, it was.
We couldn’t quite figure out how it worked until the next day when we ran into some simple devices on the trail that were metal tubes that locked into a notch to direct your eye towards a point of interest. It didn’t magnify it at all. It just got your eye pointed in the right direction when the tube rested on a preset notch. We suspect this locator once had one of those tubes and you’d rest it on those notches to see the sights each slot pointed you too. What a magnificently simple, clever solution!
So that was my lackluster first impression of the Grand Canyon. I wasn’t going to let it get me down as we would be in the park for a few days. It was bound to get better – I just had to wait a little bit longer and hang onto that optimism bubbling away in my mind.
We made our annual camping trip to Great Sand Dunes National Park near the end this past summer. The trip was wonderful, as usual, though something was very different from trips past. Things were oh, so very dry…
Southwestern and south central Colorado had extreme drought conditions through much of 2018. (It’s only gotten marginally better this fall – they’re down to only severe drought conditions.) . It was so dry down at Dunes that Medano Creek was completely dried up by the time we got there in late August! We’ve been there plenty of times during the late summer months and we know that the creek is usually barely a trickle and is really dependent on thunderstorms for flow at that time of year. This year though? Completely and utterly dry and gone! Not a trace of the creek.
To give you an idea of what we found, here’s a shot I typically take looking northeast, upstream towards the mountains. (This shot was taken during a trip in August 2010, a year or two after some wildfires in the hills whose ashes was still washing downstream.)
Here’s what we found this year…
Little different, huh? Even in dry years, there’s usually at least a sign that the creek had been there recently. Some wet sand, maybe a trickle of water. This year? Nada. Even when you dug your toes down a few inches, the sand was bone dry.
I always say no matter how many times we go to Dunes, we always see something new. The lack of Medano Creek was a certainly new one for us. It also gave us a reason to hike as far as we could (or felt like it) upstream to see if we could find signs of water. I wish I could say we found a trace, but we did not after trekking a few miles along the creek bed.
What we did see along the way were a few fun sights of high desert life continuing in spite of the drought. Prairie sunflowers were still around, though not as bountiful as they’ve been the last few years. Dune grasses persistent in their survival, still mainly green in color.
And of course, the overall scenery was splendid as it always is…
Although it was abnormally dry, we still had a great time camping and hiking and hanging out with friends. Until next year Dunes…
I have no idea where 2018 has gotten to. As I write, it’s mid-August and I just came across pictures from back in February that I hadn’t processed! Clearly life got a little busy and – quite honestly – saying goodbye to our little girl Sydney back in June threw me for quite a loop. Pictures were definitely the last thing on my mind as we went through that. (I’m sure at some point I’ll write a post about that – I’ll be sure to hydrate myself before I write since it’s bound to be a teary one.)
So here we are late-summer, looking back at snowshoe pictures I took in February during the one and only time we got out on the trails this winter. We trekked up the winter trail to one of our favorite places – Loch Vale (a.k.a. The Loch). The winter trail is pretty easy until the last quarter-mile or so when it gets pretty steep. It’s worth the trip though!
As usual, it was really blustery when we reached The Loch itself. We had to find some shelter out of the wind just to eat our lunch. Luckily for me, we plopped ourselves down for a nosh right near a really interesting curl of snow on a rock. I think that’s the one thing that I took the most pictures of during our hike! Though it was tricky to avoid over-exposing the picture using my phone, I did snag a few shots that I was fond of…
The Loch is a good hike any time of year, though winter is probably our favorite because it’s not nearly as crowded as it is other times of year. Naturally, that comes with trade-offs that you have to prepare for… like bundling up and leaning into powerful winds to get up there in the first place! Totally worth it though…
Before we left Mesa Verde National Park for the last stop on our trip in Durango, we had time for one quick morning spin to Petroglyph Point. We hadn’t done that hike since the first time my husband took me to Mesa Verde back in 2007. (In fact, this may be the very first hike I ever went on in Mesa Verde!) Ten years later seemed like a good time to check it out, and the length of the hike certainly fit our itinerary for the day.
We decided to hit the trail as soon as it opened. Since the trail starts near the popular Spruce Tree House site and the museum, access to the trail is controlled by a locked gate that’s only open during daylight hours. We thought the gate opened at 8am. Surprise! It wasn’t going to open until 8:30. What to do with time to kill and good morning light? Take pictures of yucca, of course!
Eventually 8:30 came, so we schlepped down to the gate to start our day and it was still locked. Huh? We waited a few minutes, figuring maybe the rangers were running late, yet still no signs of it opening. I hiked back up to the museum at the top of the trail to ask the rangers was up and it turned out there was some sort of coverage miscommunication, so one of the rangers came back down with me and opened it for us. Sweet! That guaranteed we were the first ones on the trail for the day so we could set our own pace and have some peace and quiet along the way.
I took some pictures along the way out to Petroglyph Point, but much of the trail was in shade since the sun wasn’t very high in the sky yet. I tried not to slow our pace too much with picture-taking, but there was one exception…
We came upon a rock along the trail that had some huge holes eroded in it. The way the light was coming through the holes, it looked like mini caverns or slot canyons. The lighting was so delicate that it took some time to get the exposure dialed in, and then a little more time in post processing to bring out the light the way my eyes saw it. I think it was time well spent based on the results.
A couple of miles down the trail, we reached Petroglyph Point and still hadn’t seen or heard another soul on the trail. It was wonderful! We took quite a bit of time at the petroglyph panel itself because it’s really interesting to study in detail when you have the opportunity to do so.
Only mere yards after you reach the petroglyphs, you start your ascent up some ladders back to the mesa top to walk back around to the trailhead through some pinyon and juniper forest. Before we climbed out, we turned around and found that the canyon was lit up beautifully in the morning sun. Picture time!
Turns out that wasn’t the only cool view. There was a tiny one right next to us as we were looking out across the canyons – a cluster of cacti thriving in a crack on one of the big boulders next to us.
Once we returned to the car, it was time to leave the park. Always a bittersweet feeling, but we still had an afternoon and a night in Durango to look forward to before the long drive home.
Since we couldn’t check into our hotel quite that early, we went directly to Ska Brewing in Durango. We’ve enjoyed their beer many times, but had never managed to make it to the brewery itself to check it out. I was sold the second I saw what might be one of the best traffic control signs ever in their parking lot (complete with aspens changing color in the background)…
Wonderful brews and a tasty lunch were had by all.
The melancholy of our trip coming rapidly to a close was starting to set in, but we enjoyed our short stay in Durango. It was a whirlwind week in Utah and southwest Colorado, but a really fun one. Can’t wait to do it again!!
When we spend time in eastern Utah, that usually means the loop back home runs through southwest Colorado somehow. It’s a convenient excuse for my husband to stop by Mesa Verde National Park and see what’s going on. Though it makes for a much longer trip home, we get to see some parts of the state we don’t visit on a regular basis. It certainly makes for a beautiful change of scenery.
This trip followed that same pattern. We left Goblin Valley State Park in Utah and started the roundabout way home via Mesa Verde. With only a day and a half to spend in the park itself, we kept the schedule fairly light and open, though we did squeeze in one of the limited-access ranger-led hikes to a cliff dwelling that’s not typically open to the public.
Every year, Mesa Verde offers 2 different ranger-led hikes that are limited to about 10 people each day for a small cost. These trips take you to sites very much off the beaten path and typically not visible from any of the overlooks, nor are they regularly toured by the masses. It’s a nice balance for the park in terms of management – they can keep the sites somewhat accessible to the public by rotating the offerings each year while ensuring these sites are protected from the wear and tear of tour bus-fulls of tourists trampling around them daily.
We’ve been on a few of these ranger-led hikes during previous trips to the park. This year we lucked out and got to go to a new site – Oak Tree House. It was billed as a 2 mile roundtrip hike that involved using ropes and ladders. Ok by us!
The hike to Oak Tree House started fairly early in the morning – certainly fine by me from a photography perspective since that meant good light to shoot in.
As we descended down the trail, we were curious when the ropes and ladders would come into play. We didn’t have to wait long. We quickly came upon a spot where you used a rope to steady yourself as you went backwards down a steep-ish rock to a ladder to climb down to the next level of the hike. Certainly a nice twist on “normal” hiking (a.k.a. walking). Luckily, with my camera strap setup attached to my backpack, I was able to traverse the course without any problems or accidentally banging my camera at all. Very helpful when you’re trying really hard not to be the photography jerk slowing down the whole group!
The rangers that guide these hikes do a really nice job with the interpretation & education. They also keep the pace pretty tame, so that did allow me the opportunity to stop and snag some shots. What I immediately noticed was, when the ranger would stop and tell the group that there was, say, a good shot of Cliff Palace across the canyon, everybody focused over there where the site was in complete & utter shade. Where was I pointing? The exact opposite way making use of the morning sunlight still shimmering off of the canyon walls.
Following the light and always looking around as we stopped to listen to the ranger continued to pay off for me and my pictures because there was a very cooperative bluebird warming himself in the morning sun on a branch not far from where we were standing on the trail. That’s why I always keep my eyes peeled when hiking or simply walking around town with my camera!
It didn’t take long to reach Oak Tree House itself. The site wasn’t as in-tact as some of the more famous houses like Cliff Palace, Balcony House, or Spruce Tree house that are swarmed with visitors each year and very, very well maintained & preserved. Still, it had some interesting coloring and characteristics that you don’t see on other houses in the park. (It also had some t-shaped doors similar to those found on the houses built at Chaco Canyon… makes you wonder if the civilizations were linked in some way even though the timelines are just a tad off.)
For the first time back at Mesa Verde in 7 years, it was a nice way to start to the day.
The hike was so short that we were easily done by lunchtime. After a bite to eat, we had some time to kill on the mesa before catching the Balcony House tour later that afternoon. We drove out to the Far View Sites to walk around a bit and wound up chatting some more with the park volunteer who had joined us on our Oak Tree House hike earlier in the day.
I was feeling lazy and didn’t want to carry my pack or my camera around, so I just shot with my phone. That gave me the opportunity to try some new shots at the site that I may not have been able to maneuver myself into position to get with my big camera and my pack on.
Finally it was time to head over for our Balcony House tour with 50 other visitors. Since it was late in the season, only Balcony House was open for public tours meaning every single tour was packed to the gills. Once again, considering the pace of the ranger-led tour and the amount of people on it, I opted for no pack and no camera again. It also helped that my husband reminded me of the tiny, narrow passageways you have to scoot and crawl through on the tour. It was just easier to use my phone and leave the big stuff behind.
Balcony House hadn’t changed much in the 10 years since we last toured it. I’d say that’s a good sign for how it’s being managed by the Park Service considering how many people trek through there daily.
As with our other tours, I once again found myself looking around for the less-than-obvious things to shoot. It paid off again as I came home with a really wild shot of the canyon wall leading into the Balcony House site. There’s just something about this shot that mesmerized me more I looked at it after we got home. There’s something about the colors and textures that just draw my eye in.
Believe it or not, that was just our first day at the park! There’s still another half day to come. There’s bound to be something good to do the next morning before we leave… right? Just what? Something to ponder…